Autumn is the best season for budding fruit trees. The survival rate can be greatly improved. The specific method is described as follows: Do a good job. If the buds are connected too early and the sprouting development is not yet complete, the rootstocks are in a vigorous growth stage, the accumulated nutrients in the body are less, the bud survival rate is low, and the buds are prone to freeze damage after germination. If the buds are picked up too late, it is not easy to peel off, and healing is difficult afterwards, resulting in a low survival rate. It is generally more appropriate to carry out budding in September. Different areas can be advanced or delayed according to the weather conditions. It is preferably buds. The buds at the top of shoots and the buds at the bottom of the shoots are not suitable for budding, and the buds in the middle of the shoots should be selected as buds. Bud size should be appropriate, buds too small, the contact surface with the rootstock is small, difficult to survive afterwards; buds too large, easy to fold when inserted into the rootstock interface, resulting in poor contact, low survival rate. When cutting the buds, care should be taken to protect the bud pad or a small amount of xylem. Under normal circumstances, the buds should be cut into shields or ring blocks, and the length of the shield-shaped buds should be 15 to 20 millimeters. The size of the buds in the ring block shape can be controlled flexibly according to the thickness of the rootstock and budding shoots. Note the method. When grafting, be sure to handle the rootstock and then cut the buds, and then follow the cut, in order to maintain the moisture of buds and improve the survival rate. Using the "t" shaped bud connection, the "t" type mouth can be cut 30 to 50 mm away from the ground at the rootstock first. The depth is to see the xylem and the bark can be peeled off. Then the root bark is carefully peeled off with the tip of the root. The buds with shields and petioles are quickly embedded, and they are tied tightly with a plastic tape 10 mm wide. Only the buds and petioles are exposed. The density of the dressing is preferably 10 to 15 mm above and below the incision, and 100 mm after the buds are grafted. After approximately 15 days, the earth was opened and the survival situation checked. If the shoot is fresh greenish and the petiole touches down, it means that it has survived. If it does not survive, it should be re-sprouted on the back of the rootstock. Strengthen management. The seedlings sprouted in autumn, and the second year after the spring, the shoots were cut at the upper part of 180 to 200 mm, and the ligatures were released. 3 to 4 prunings in the summer, cut branches from the rootstock. When the budding shoots are 80 to 90 mm long, they are tied to the live pile near the base. When it is 200 to 230 mm long, it should be tied once more at its upper end. After cutting and lignifying, the live piles are cut off, and large seedlings can be kept in the field.
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